February 2019: Resolutions

Ask The Inspector

Should You Be Concerned About Radon?

Radon is a radioactive gas that is slowly released during the natural decay of uranium in the earth, and it moves freely through any soil, rock and water. These broken down elements can be inhaled into the lungs, leading to long-term damage. Luckily, it’s easy to keep your family safe. Learn more

Common Defects in Newly Built Homes

When it comes to new-home construction, defects are common. In fact, it’s been said that a home inspector can sometimes find more things wrong with a newly constructed home than an older one. Here’s a list of issues our inspectors find most often. Learn more

How Does a Home Inspector Inspect a Gas Forced-Air Furnace?

Industry standards of practice state that an inspector should open accessible panels to inspect installed heating equipment. So, how does the inspector meet these standards when he/she is using visual noninvasive inspection techniques? Find out at the blog! Learn more

Expert Advice

Everything You Need to Know About Ventilation

We all understand the importance of a healthy roof for keeping a home in great condition. But what’s one often overlooked area that plays a huge role in a roof’s performance and efficiency? Ventilation. Here, we’ll go over how to determine whether you need better roof and attic ventilation. Learn more

25 Quick Ideas for Decluttering

Got a spare hour or so? It’s time to start tossing. Grab a trash bag, a recycling bin and a few donation boxes and get down to business. Working room by room, here are the things you can get rid of right this second. Learn more

10 New Year’s Resolutions for Your Home

Want to make 2019 the best year yet? It all starts with a happy home. Putting even one or two of these 10 household New Year’s resolutions into practice can help you create a healthy space for making all your dreams realities. Learn more

Snapshots From The Field

What’s wrong with this picture?

Hint: if you see a light fixture located anywhere near a tub or shower, you need to be on your toes.

The light fixture pictured in the shower above is not “wet-rated” or “watertight,” meaning it has not been approved for use near a water source. Wet-rated lights should not be confused with “damp-rated” lights, which are approved for areas that are subject to light moisture or condensation (the inside your refrigerator or an older basement are two examples of areas that need damp-rated bulbs). Your shower is a wet location, and it needs wet-rated lighting. Recessed lighting with a watertight barrier is one of the best choices to keep you and your family safe from electrocution and injury.

Maintenance Matters

Important Information About Preventing Appliance Fires

Preventing appliance fires comes down to proper planning and maintenance. This is especially true for the kitchen, which contains many appliances that without proper care could pose a hazard. To limit future problems, there are a few things every homeowner can do. Learn more

Icicles Signal Problems for Homeowners

This winter, take special note of any icicles hanging from your roof. Small icicles are normal, but large, thick icicles can be dangerous if they fall and usually spell trouble for your home. Fortunately, most problems that cause icicles can be remedied easily. Learn more

 

Monthly Trivia Question

Question: What percentage of the earth’s water is safe and available for drinking?

Be the first to answer correctly and win a $10 Starbucks’s gift card. Submit your answer to your local NPI inspector to find out if you’ve won.

 

Common Defects in Newly Built Homes

Home under construction uid 1

When it comes to new-home construction, there really is no limit as to what can go wrong or not be done correctly during building. Defects are common; in fact, it has been said that a home inspector can sometimes find more things wrong with a newly constructed home than an existing home. This is why it’s important to always have a home inspection when buying a house — even if the house is newly built.

You might wonder what kinds of defects a new house could possibly have. Here is a list of problems home inspectors often find:

Structural Defects
Premature cracking and settlement in foundation walls can be caused when builders don’t allow the proper amount of curing time for concrete in poured and block foundation walls and slabs. In addition, improper framing techniques — which may not be apparent at first — can cause cracks to develop in drywall. These are typically hairline in nature.

HVAC Problems
Our inspectors occasionally discover that the vent pipe from a gas-fired furnace has not been connected and has come loose during the initial operation. This is a major safety hazard, as carbon monoxide may enter the residence. In one situation, the PVC pipes used to vent a gas-fired furnace were not properly glued together. In addition, our inspectors sometimes find thermostats that do not respond to normal functions. Another common problem is missing drip legs on condensate lines.

Electrical Errors
The list is long for typical electrical problems, and most would not be obvious to the average home buyer or owner. The problem with defects in your home’s electrical system is that most are a fire and/or safety hazard. Here are the most common electrical problems our inspectors find in new houses:

  • Missing switch plates or receptacle covers
  • Improperly wired outlets
  • Open grounds — ground wire is not connected properly
  • Reversed polarity
  • Open knock-outs in the main electrical panel
  • Improper wire sizes on breakers
  • Double-taps on breakers in main panels — when two wires connect to a single breaker
    Jumpers ahead of the main lugs (double-tapping) — when two wires connect to a single lug

Plumbing Blunders
Plumbing problems are something you certainly don’t want in a new house. Leaks can cause major damage and mold issues, while other defects are more of a nuisance. But shouldn’t your brand-new home be free of nuisances? Here are some of the most common plumbing issues:

  • Unglued or improperly glued PVC pipe connections frequently develop leaks — you may never know about the weak joint until standing water begins to seep through
  • Hot/cold reversed faucets and fixtures
  • Bathroom sink drain stoppers that were not connected
  • Improperly vented plumbing systems may be noisy and/or smelly
  • Drain pipes that were not connected (One of our inspectors really did find a drain pipe in a crawl space that was never connected)

Miscellaneous Mistakes
Believe it or not, our inspectors have found all of the following problems in newly constructed houses:

  • Incomplete door hardware on closet doors, cabinetry and entrance doors
  • Improper fire-rated assemblies for pull-down attic stairs
  • Missing handrails on stairs
  • Missing or insufficient insulation
  • Leaky windows
  • Siding defects
  • Improper grading, which could lead to water intrusion and foundation damage

What these defects tell us is that if you are moving into a newly built house, don’t skip the home inspection. Even the best builders in your area use subcontractors, so you can’t assume that everything in your house is top-quality just because you builder is. Plus, you have to allow for human error, which is how many of the problems mentioned here happen. So, even if you just had your house built, it’s worth the cost of a home inspection to ensure that everything was done correctly, and that your new home will be safe and worry-free.

By Randy Yates, Training Consultant Administrator, NPI/GPI Corporate

How to Remove a Popcorn Ceiling

Popcorn ceilings are just one of those things. Some of us barely notice them, while others put them in the same category as fake wood paneling when it comes to outdatedness. If you’re of the latter opinion, the good news is that you don’t have to live with your popcorn ceilings forever. While it can be a pretty messy task, you can still remove all that texture with a little DIY know-how.

When in doubt, check for asbestos!

For any popcorn ceiling installed before 1980, you run the risk of dealing with asbestos, a common cause of lung cancer. You can purchase a testing kit for around $50 and send a small sample of scrapings to a lab for definitive results. Be sure to follow the directions in your kit carefully. Even a small scraping can introduce a good number of (potential) asbestos particles to the air.

You can also hire a local professional asbestos testing service. This can be considerably more expensive, but quite a bit more comprehensive since they’ll test multiple areas, air quality and more. If your home was built long before 1980 and you’re not sure of its renovation history, a professional test is well worth it for the peace of mind.

If your test does come back positive for asbestos, your popcorn ceiling project will need to be put on hold. You can hire a professional removal team or cover your ceiling with tongue-and-groove planks or new drywall. With a cover-up, you’ll be looking at a painting-only project instead of a scraping-then-painting one.

Prepare your space for a rather large mess.

We’re not going to beat around the bush: removing a popcorn ceiling can turn your space into a gloppy mess in minutes. You’ll want to invest in drop cloths . . . lots of drop cloths. The plastic variety is best because you can scrunch it up, trapping the mess inside, and just throw it away. Cover rugs and carpets and hang drop cloths in doorways, making sure they reach the floor.

It’s best to remove any furniture from the space you’ll be working in. If that isn’t possible, you’ll want to group it together in one area of the room and be sure it’s completely covered with drop cloths. You can move your furniture cluster around the room as needed while you work in different areas.

Prepare yourself.

Did we mention that removing a popcorn ceiling is a messy job? Wear old clothes and shoes. If your skin is sensitive, you may want to wear clothing that covers your arms and legs—you’re almost guaranteed to be up to your elbows in damp white gunk once the scraping begins. You’ll also need to have a dust mask that securely covers your nose and mouth on hand for the sanding phase.

Remove light fixtures and ceiling fans, protect light cans and cover electrical boxes.

Trust us, you won’t want to skip these prep steps. Taking the time to cover or remove anything on your ceiling will help you avoid needing replacements in the long-run when the wet popcorn inevitably starts flying. You’ll need to remove light fixtures and ceiling fans, and stuff newspaper or rosin paper in any light cans. You’ll also need to make sure you turn off the circuit breaker or fuse box connected to those lights. If there are any electrical boxes in the ceiling, you need to cover those as well. Use painter’s tape to keep the wiring dry.

Mist the ceiling with a pump sprayer.

To eliminate most of the dust that would get kicked up from scraping popcorn dry, you’ll first mist a four foot by four foot area of the ceiling with water. An inexpensive pump sprayer from the gardening department of your local hardware store will work nicely. Only mist lightly—you don’t want to oversaturate—then let it soak for about 15 minutes before you proceed with scraping. By this time, the texture should have softened. If it hasn’t softened yet, you’re probably dealing with a painted ceiling. Doing a little dry-scraping first can help the water penetrate more effectively.

Start scraping.

Remember to wet the next section you plan to work in right before you start scraping the one you’ve been waiting to work with. This will help you get into a rhythm and work faster. Working in the small section you’ve misted with water, start scraping. You can hold a mud pan up to catch much of the wet popcorn before it hits the floor. The edge of the pan is also handy for cleaning your scraper when it gets covered.

Sand the ceiling to prep for painting.

Your last step is going to be to sand the ceiling so that you have a smooth surface for paint application. You also may have small gouges or dings to fill in. And that’s it!

Call National Property Inspections today to schedule your inspection.

Our inspectors have the expertise to access all of your home’s major systems. Call us to order an inspection and receive your full report.

Prevent Injuries by Practicing Ladder Safety

 

Inspector on Ladder

A Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) report on ladder safety showed some startling statistics concerning the frequency and severity of ladder-related accidents in the United States. Every year thousands of people are injured and hundreds are killed. By understanding the causes of ladder accidents the vast majority could be prevented.

  • More than 90,000 people receive emergency room treatment from ladder-related injuries every year
  • Elevated falls account for almost 700 occupational deaths annually
  • These deaths account for 15 percent of all occupational deaths
  • OSHA believes that 100 percent of all ladder accidents could be prevented if proper attention to equipment and climber training were provided
  • Over the last 10 years, the number of ladder-related injuries has increased 50 percent
  • According the Bureau of Labor Statistics, 50 percent of all ladder-related accidents were due to individuals carrying items as they climbed
  • The most common type of ladder-related injury, with 32 percen, is fractures

Ladder accidents are extremely common even though they are entirely preventable. Ladder accidents can occur as a result of a wide variety of issues, but the following four causes account for the vast majority. If these simple loss-prevention tips for each cause are followed, then ladder accidents could almost be eliminated.

1. Selecting the Wrong Type of Ladder

Each ladder is designed to support a maximum weight limit, and if the climber exceeds that limit, the ladder could break and cause the user to fall or become injured. There are three basic types of ladders:

  • Type III — Household, light duty, load capacity of 200 lbs.
  • Type II — Commercial, medium duty, load capacity of 225 lbs.
  • Type I — Industrial, heavy-duty, load capacity of 250 lbs.
  • For extra-heavy duty work, such as roofing and construction, there is the Type IA with a 300-lb. rating. The strongest type of ladder is the Type IIA (holding 375 lbs.) for special duty, such as heavy industrial construction work.

2. Using Worn or Damaged Ladders

Another common contributing factor to ladder accidents is the use of old, worn or damaged ladders. Thoroughly inspect each ladder before using it. If any damage is found, do not use the ladder until it has been safely repaired to the manufacturer’s specifications or it has been replaced.

3. Incorrect Use of Ladders

Human error is by far the leading cause of ladder accidents. Never use a ladder in any other way than what the manufacturer intended it to be used for. Important use tips include the following:

  • Do not lengthen or alter a ladder in any way.
  • Maintain three points of contact (feet and hands) at all times.
  • Wear slip-resistant shoes.
  • Do not carry anything while climbing a ladder.
  • No more than one person on ladder at a time.
  • Always face the ladder when ascending or descending.
  • Do not climb higher than the third rung on extension ladders or the second rung on stepladders.
  • Never try to move a ladder while standing on it.

4. Incorrect Placement of Ladders

Follow these tips for correct placement of ladders.

  • Place the ladder on level and firm ground.
  • Ladders should never be placed in front of a door that is not locked, blocked or guarded.
  • If possible, have a helper support the base while using a ladder.
  • The feet of the ladder can be staked if you are using a ladder outside and no one is available to support the feet of the ladder.
  • Do not use a ladder that is too short for the necessary height.
  • Do not place the ladder on something to extend its reach.
  • Use a 1:4 ratio in placement of the ladder: Place the ladder base 1 ft away from the surface it is leaning against for every 4 ft of height to the point where the ladder contacts at the top.

By Jon McCreath, NPI Franchise Owner, Emerson, Georgia

How Should a Seller Prepare for a Home Inspection?

Inspector + Cabinet4

This is an excellent question to ask, as I’ve actually seen too many houses that were not ready for a home inspection, and unfortunately, this did have a negative effect on the sale of those properties. Most Realtors will advise you that preparing for a home inspection is very similar to when you prepared your home for its first viewing or for an open house. It is best to have the property neat and tidy, and if necessary, with keys labelled and available for any locked access. It is also advisable to provide a safe place for your pets. This may mean a sturdy, appropriately sized kennel in the home, or it can mean taking the pet to a friend or relative they are comfortable with until things are more settled. Please remember, a home inspector will need to view both the interior and exterior of the home, so simply putting pets in an open yard is not enough.

As a seller, you should be aware that most professional home inspectors tend to arrive about 15 to 30 minutes earlier than the scheduled home inspection appointment. This gives the home inspector the opportunity to inspect the exterior of the home, while waiting for the client and the Realtor to arrive. To that end, I’d suggest leaving the home at least 30 minutes prior to the booked time.

Having everything ready on the day of inspection can prevent unnecessary delays. Unfortunately, for liability reasons, the home inspector is not required, nor advised, to move items blocking access to areas that need to be inspected. Additionally, for liability reason, they are not required to operate any system or component that has been shut down, and this may include any shut-off valves or even tripped breakers in the electrical panel. The home inspector does not have enough information to know why a particular system has been shut down and if they were to reactivate it, it could potentially put your house, the component or a system at risk.

If possible, you should consider leaving a written list, plus receipts that could answer typical maintenance-related questions from the buyer and the home inspector. As an example, can you provide information about the age of the roof, heating system, recent upgrades, etc. and are there any transferrable warranties?

To make the process as smooth as possible, you should verify the following:

  • All utilities are on.
  • Attic access doors are clear of clothing or stored items. Access may be in a closet, hallway or garage.
  • Crawl-space entrances are not blocked or nailed in place.
  • Water meter and main water line are accessible.
  • Water heater and surrounding area are accessible.
  • Furnace and surrounding area are accessible.
  • Air conditioning/heat pump units and surrounding area are accessible.
  • Electrical panels are accessible and not locked.
  • Electrical subpanels are accessible.
  • Decorative items from doors and windows are removed (including sun catchers, plants, etc.).
  • Kitchen countertops are clear.
  • Foundation walls, especially the corners of the basement are clear of stored items.
  • The garage overhead and service doors are clear of items.
  • Be sure all exterior doors are accessible
  • Remove any locks on outside gates, which prevent full access to the exterior.

As a general rule of thumb, the home inspector will need at about three feet of workspace in order to safely access electrical panels, heating systems, HRV, etc. So, please remove boxes, stored items and debris from these areas.

Submitted by Lawrence Englehart, GPI Franchise Owner, Halifax, Nova Scotia

How to Keep Your Pond from Freezing This Winter

Garden ponds provide a sense of calm in spring and summer. But as the days grow colder, it’s important to know the simple steps to take to keep your pond from freezing over until warmer weather returns.

First, a thorough cleaning of the pond is necessary to remove any dead plants and algae from the water. Any rotting foliage left behind may produce gases underneath the ice’s surface that can kill your fish over the winter. Move hardy plants to deeper water, where they will be safely submerged (at least 18 inches deep) to keep from freezing. If your pond freezes over entirely before you can move plants, be sure to remove and store them inside for the winter in the basement or a heated garage. Tropical lilies and other tender plants must be removed and stored in pots without drainage holes. Plants can be wrapped in damp newspaper and stored in trash bags. Check them every other week or so to make sure they do not dry out.

Clean the Filter and Pond

There are options for storing your pond’s filter between seasons, but a thorough cleaning is always a good idea before the cold sets in. Once it has been cleaned, you can move the filter closer to the water’s surface to keep your pond from freezing over. Or, simply remove the filter and store it until springtime. Next, vacuum the pond to remove any dead plants and left-over debris. Again, these can produce toxic gases when left beneath an icy surface, which can be harmful to your fishy friends.

Fish Care

When the temperature drops, reducing the amount of food you give to your fish can help them acclimate to the cold. As soon as it gets below 50 degrees, stop feeding them altogether to prevent them from creating unnecessary waste products in their environment. The fish will go into semi-hibernation, when they will feed on the nutrients in the water. There are some breeds of fish, however, that are sensitive to cold weather and need to be brought indoors when the weather gets cold. These include fancy goldfish with ornate tails, bubble eyes and lionheads.

Cover The Pond

To keep your pond from freezing over completely, investing in a cover will ensure that falling leaves and branches do not make their way into your aqueous environment. This will also assist during the process of prepping the pond for springtime when the cold thaws. All you need is a shade cloth, netting, or landscape fabric to do the job. If you are in doubt of how best to handle your pond’s care, contact the friendly experts at National Property Inspections.

Pond Safety

Whether you have a large or small pond, chances are you have some sort of pump and filtration system. During the cold months, it is especially important to disconnect these lines before water freezes and breaks the entire device. In fact, it’s best to purchase a de-icer to melt a small hole in the surface of your pond, allowing noxious gases to be purged from the water.

When it comes time to keep your pond from freezing, Call Us to help batten down the hatches. Their expertise will go a long way in keeping your fish, filtration system, and overall outdoor haven a safe and beautiful place year-round.

Look for These Problems When Buying an Old House: Part 2

Buying an Old House

In our last post, we shared many of the most important problems to look for when buying an old house, but that’s not nearly the whole story! Read on as we continue our rundown of everything you should know about before you buy your older dream home.

Plumbing Problems

As you might imagine, older houses can come with more than their fair share of plumbing problems. Whether pipes are leaky because of house settling, rust from water intrusion or simply have worn-out fittings, these can spell real trouble. The thing is, you may not be able to see evidence of these problems during an initial walkthrough. That’s where a home inspector can be a lifesaver, especially if they’re using an infrared camera that can detect subtle variations in temperature within walls and ceilings. Cooler temperatures can be an indication of moisture collecting where it shouldn’t be!

Foundation Trouble

Some amount of foundation settling is normal in an older house, and in most cases it isn’t a cause for concern. However, certain conditions may be dealbreakers—a significant amount of sinking in a corner of the foundation, for instance, can indicate a sinkhole. Other soil conditions, like freezing and thawing cycles, can cause upheaval along the perimeter of your foundation. Other signs to look for include horizontal cracks bigger than ¼ inch, doors or windows throughout the house that don’t close correctly and uneven floors. Foundation cracks can even lead to other problems, like damp, moldy basements and termite infestations, so it’s important to identify them before you decide to buy.

Roof Damage

Many older homes also have roofs that are approaching the end of their life spans. Unless you’re prepared to climb up on the roof, though, chances are you won’t see the problems that might mean a roof replacement in your near future. Depending on the style of roof on the house you’re considering, an inspector will spot problems with shingles like cupping, cracking or mold. In the case of asphalt shingles, they’ll also note if a lot of shed granules are ending up in the gutters. It’s also fairly common to see multiple layers of shingles on the roof where homeowners opted to save money by not stripping their roof before applying new shingles.

Drafty Windows

It’s a fact of life—old homes tend to have drafty windows. This may not seem like a big deal for some, but it does have a long-term effect on both your comfort and your checkbook. Windows that aren’t airtight let cold air through in the winter and hot air through in the summer, which makes your HVAC system work harder than it should. This leads to higher heating and cooling bills, more costly breakdowns and actually shortens the lifespan of these important appliances.

Failing Appliances

As with any other aspect of an older home, you need to pay careful attention to its built-in appliances. The age and condition of air conditioning units, furnaces, water heaters, dishwashers and more should be documented to get a general idea of how long they’ll still be viable before you’ll have to replace them.

Get an NPI Inspection Today

NPI inspectors are professionally trained to identify the condition of a home’s most important systems, no matter its age. Contact us today to schedule an inspection before you buy.

6 Essential Fall Lawn Care Tasks

Fall Lawn Care

The air is crisp and the trees are changing colors. That must mean fall is here! Even if your yard isn’t fully blanketed in crunchy leaves just yet, you can still start on these essential fall lawn care tasks.

1. Rake the leaves.

It turns out that the quintessential fall chore really is the most important one. If you love the look of a blanket of fall leaves, you’ll want to listen up. They may be pretty and fun for kids to play in, but a covering of damp autumn leaves is awful for your grass. Not only do leaves block sunlight, they also trap moisture, leading to a soggy, decaying mess come spring. There’s no need to cut into your fall fun too much, though. You can always rake leaves as you see them, dividing a couple afternoons’ worth of work into more manageable 10- or 15-minute tasks.

2. Don’t winterize the sprinkler just yet.

It’s a myth that cooler weather means your lawn needs less water—it might even need more! It’s true that there’s less evaporation in cooler weather, but dew and rainfall isn’t always sufficient for keeping grass healthy. Just like in summer, you’ll need to pay attention to precipitation and use your sprinklers intermittently until the first frost. Use a rain gauge to make sure your grass is getting at least an inch of water a week, and plan to have your sprinklers running until right around Halloween.

3. Keep mowing.

We’re all eager to put away our mowers for the year after a long summer of cutting grass. But it’s still perfectly appropriate, not to mention necessary, to mow your lawn well into fall. Grass will keep growing until the first hard frost, so you’ll likely need to keep trimming it down to the ideal three-inch height. Leaving grass too long can leave it vulnerable to snow mold, and cutting it too short can weaken it against dry, frigid winter weather. So stick to what you know for now, and keep a lookout for news of the first hard frost.

4. Treat your lawn with fertilizers.

Prepare to have the greenest lawn on the block come April. There are myriad fertilizers available for every need, including winter. Investing in a slow-release granular 24-0-10 variety and spreading it in late fall can help protect grass roots from freezing, allowing your entire lawn to bounce back quickly in spring. Just be sure, as usual, that you’re avoiding contamination by not spreading fertilizer too close to waterways; a five-foot buffer is best.

5. Plant bulbs and spread seed.

Mid to late November is a great time to plant spring bulbs before the ground freezes. Follow the instructions for the bulbs you’ve chosen and be ready to sprout tulips, daffodils and more in spring, with all the hard work done for you. Late fall is also a great time to spread seed, thickening up your grass and keeping it strong and healthy against the elements.

6. Stick to schedule.

It’s a fact: lawn work takes time, and more than that, it takes commitment. You’ll want to stick to a fairly strict schedule to achieve the best results. For more information regarding the best time to perform all the steps above, contact your local lawn care company for a consultation. Or, better yet, hire them to do it for you for a professional quality lawn that turns heads.
To sell or buy with confidence, call National Property Inspections.

National Property Inspections’ highly qualified inspectors have the experience and expertise to give a full report on the condition of your home. Call us to buy or sell with success.

A Pajama Lounge? What It Is and Why the Trend is Taking Over

Have you heard of a pajama lounge? If you haven’t yet, you’ll probably be seeing the concept everywhere soon! We’ll give you a quick rundown of what a pajama lounge is and the different ways you can adapt it to your taste and living space.

What is a Pajama Lounge?

Short answer: just about anything you want it to be. But a pajama lounge does have one particular feature that makes it a pajama lounge, and that is its location. Pajama lounges are always located on an upper floor of the home, typically the second or third. They’re basically a common space, similar to a home’s living room or family room, located close to its bedrooms so that residents have the novelty of padding right down to it instead of going all the way downstairs.

But that’s where the similarities end from home to home. You can do just about anything you’d like with an upper story common area, aka a pajama lounge. Check out the list below for some of our favorite ideas.

Create the Themed Common Room of Your Dreams

Since the living room is often one of the first spaces visible when you enter a home, many homeowners tend to hold back a bit when it comes to painting, decorating and design. But why not have some fun with your pajama lounge? If you’ve always dreamed of a beach-inspired room filled with calming blues and salvaged wood, go for it. Other ideas include a sports team theme or a movie-viewing space with theater seats, a big screen and a projector.

Build Your Children a Playroom

No child can say no to their very own space right down the hall from their bedroom. Design a pajama lounge with plenty of storage for toys and books and a table and chairs for puzzles and games. Place pillows and low seating all around to encourage reading and relaxing.

Construct a Study or Home Office

Create a pajama lounge that’s more productivity and less lounge. Add a desk, a reading nook and shelving for a chic study or home office for record-keeping or work-from-home days.

Play Up the “Lounge” Angle

Skip the TV and create a space to encourage relaxation and reflection. Choose plush, comfortable furniture and ottomans and set out magazines and other reading material. You can even add a mini fridge with refreshing drinks.

Make it an Impromptu Guest Room

While you’re picking out the perfect sofa for your pajama lounge, go ahead and make it a pull-out bed. This set-up is perfect for the holidays when your home is extra full and it makes supervising kids’ slumber parties easier than ever.

Call National Property Inspections for Your Home Inspection Needs

Our trained inspectors can assess all the major systems in your home and provide you a full report with photos on the condition of each. Contact us today to sell or buy your home with the knowledge you need to succeed.